Pōʻakolu,ʻOkakopa 5, 2022

E hoʻomākaukau e uku hou aku no nā tōmato, ʻoiai ʻo ka poʻe mahiʻai o Kaleponi e hili ana mai ka wā ʻino

Ke manaʻo nei ʻo Tomato sauce a ʻaʻole hiki ke hopu i ka ketchup.

Ke ulu nei ʻo Kaleponi ma mua o 90 pākēneka o nā tōmato canned a nā ʻAmelika a me ka hapakolu o ka honua. ʻO ka maloʻo mau i ka mokuʻāina ua hōʻeha i ke kanu ʻana a me ka ʻohi ʻana i nā mea kanu o ke kauwela, akā pōloli wai. Hoʻopili ʻia nā "māmā hana" i kahi hoʻopunipuni swirl (he "tormado"?) o nā pilikia i ʻōlelo ʻia e ka poʻe loea e hoʻoulu i nā kumukūʻai e piʻi ʻoi aku ma mua o ko lākou. i kēia.

Hoʻoweliweli ka maloʻo e hoʻopilikia i kekahi o nā meaʻai punahele a ʻAmelika - ʻO ka ʻuala pizza, ka marinara, ka paʻi tōmato, nā ʻōmato i hoʻomoʻa ʻia a me ke ketchup e kau ana i ke koena. ʻAʻole hiki mai kēia ma hope o ka liʻiliʻi, a pili ʻole loa, ka nele o ka pizza sauce a me kēlā me kēia ketchup nā ʻeke i ka wā o ke kiʻekiʻe o ka maʻi maʻi hoʻouna meaʻai.

Hele mai kēia ma luna o ka piʻi nui o ke kumukūʻai o nā huaʻai a me nā mea kanu, ke piʻi nei mai ka wā i hoʻolaha ʻia ai ka maʻi maʻi coronavirus i ka makahiki i hala.

No nā ʻōmato, hiki ke hoʻomaka koke nā kumukūʻai kiʻekiʻe inā ʻaʻole i kēia manawa, wahi a ka luna hoʻokele waiwai o Wells Fargo ʻo Michael Swanson.

"Inā he mea hana ʻoe a i ʻole he canner a ʻike i kēia mau pilikia e hiki mai ana, no ke aha ʻoe e hoʻokiʻekiʻe ʻole ai i nā kumukūʻai i kēia manawa me ka kali ʻana?" Ua ʻōlelo ʻo ia, me ka ʻōlelo ʻana ʻaʻole ʻike nā mea kūʻai aku i ke kumukūʻai no ka nui o nā tōmato i hoʻopau ʻia mai ka home. "Hoʻokomo ʻia i ka papa papa kuhikuhi - akā ʻo ia kekahi kumu e piʻi ai nā kumukūʻai ma Chipotle a me Pizza Hut."

I ka makahiki maʻamau, ulu ʻo Aaron Barcellos, kahi mahiʻai ma Firebaugh, Calif., i 2,200 mau ʻeka o ka hoʻoponopono ʻana i nā tōmato. I kēia makahiki ua hoʻoholo ʻo ia e hāʻule i 900 mau ʻeka ma kāna mahiʻai, aia ma ka palena o Kalana Merced a me Fresno. Ua waiho ʻo ia i nā ʻeka i koe i kanu ʻole ʻia, e koho ana e kālele i kāna wai makamae ma luna o nā ʻalemona, pistachios a me nā ʻoliva i ulu ʻia ma nā trellises - nā mea kanu e kauoha ana i nā kumukūʻai kiʻekiʻe a e hōʻike ana i nā kumu kūʻai nui.

“Loaʻa iā mākou ʻewalu iniha o ka ua i ka makahiki maʻamau. I ka makahiki i hala ua loaʻa iā mākou he 4½ iniha, "wahi āna. "Ua loaʻa iā mākou ka zero pakeneka o kā mākou hoʻokaʻawale wai, ka mea i koi iā mākou e kūʻai i ka wai pipiʻi nui, a ʻaʻole kūpono ke kau ʻana ma nā tōmato."

He mauu maloʻo i loko o kahi mahina ʻai ma Los Banos, Kaleponi (John Brecher no The Washington Post)

Ua ʻōlelo ʻo ia ua hoʻoholo ka nui o nā mea kanu i ka hoʻohana ʻana i kā lākou wai liʻiliʻi ma nā mea kanu mau - nā kumulāʻau a me nā mea e like me nā kumu waina - ke koho nei e haʻalele i ke kanu ʻana i nā makahiki e like me nā ʻōmato, nā aniani a me ke kālika, a i ʻole e ʻae i nā mea kanu i kanu ʻia i ka wao nahele.

ʻO ka hemahema o ka hana ʻana i nā tōmato i kēia makahiki ua lōʻihi ka hana ʻana. Ua liʻiliʻi nā tōmato i kanu ʻia e ka poʻe mahiʻai. Mai 2015 a i 2019, liʻiliʻi nā ʻāina i lawe mai i nā tōmato ʻAmelika, ʻo kekahi ʻāpana no ka ikaika o ke kālā, ʻo ia ka mea i ʻoi aku ke kumukūʻai o nā huahana tōmato US. Ua hana kēia i ka nui o nā tōmato Kaleponi, wahi a Rob Neenan, ka luna nui o ka California League of Food Producers.

Ua ʻoki nā mea hana i kā lākou mau kauoha a ua liʻiliʻi nā ʻeka o ka poʻe mahiʻai. I ka manawa like, ma muli o ke kaua kalepa, ʻo ka hemahema o ka honua i nā ʻāpana kila i hoʻohana ʻia no ka hana ʻana i nā kini no ka hana ʻana i ka meaʻai i hiki ai ke piʻi aʻe ke kumukūʻai. ʻO nā mea kanu hana nui ma Williams, Lemoore a me Stockton, Calif., pani ʻia, e hōʻike ana i nā koina hana kiʻekiʻe, e waiho ana i nā wahi liʻiliʻi no nā mea kanu e kūʻai aku. Ua haʻahaʻa loa ka waihona waiwai ma ka hoʻomaka ʻana o 2020 a ua paʻa nā lako i ka honua holoʻokoʻa.

A laila paʻi ka maʻi maʻi. E ʻimi i ka hoʻopaʻa ʻana i ka ʻōmato.

ʻO Frank Muller, he mea kanu ʻōmato lehulehu a he pelekikena o M Three Ranches ma Woodland, Calif., ma Yolo County, ua wehewehe ʻo ia i ka mākeke i ka makahiki i hala he "hoʻopilikia."

I ka hoʻomaka ʻana o ka maʻi maʻi, ua kau ʻia nā kīʻaha galani o nā tōmato i makemake ʻole ʻia ma nā papa hoʻolaha hale ʻaina, e hōʻeha ana i ka poʻe i kūʻai aku i ka ʻoihana hale ʻaina a me nā ʻoihana lawelawe meaʻai ʻē aʻe - ʻo ia ka mea e hoʻopili ai i nā mea mālama, nā kahua hanana a me nā hale ʻaina hui, pani ʻia i ka pūnāwai o 2020. I kēia manawa, kūʻai aku i nā hale kūʻai hale kūʻai - mai ka 5-auneke ka paʻi a hiki i 28 -ounce cans of diced - hele nati.

"Inā kūʻai wale ʻoe i ka lawelawe meaʻai, ʻaʻole lākou makemake i kēlā mau tōmato i ka makahiki i hala i ka wā i pani ʻia ai nā hale ʻaina. Akā inā ʻoe ma ke kūʻai kūʻai, aia ʻoe i ka lani puaʻa, "i ʻōlelo ai ʻo ia, e wehewehe ana i ka piʻi nui o ka lawe ʻana i ka pizza maʻi maʻi, ka mea i hoʻohana i kēlā mau galani āpau, a ukali ʻia e ka hapa ketchup i ka wā i hopu ʻia ai nā curbside pickups a me nā lawelawe hāʻawi meaʻai. kēlā mau ʻeke liʻiliʻi a pau.

ʻOhi kahi mea hana i nā tōmato ma ke awāwa ʻo San Joaquin. (John Brecher no ka Washington Post)

Ma luna o ka haunaele o ka pilikia lako, aia nō ka hoʻoweliweli o ka coronavirus: He mau tausani kanaka mahiai ma Kaleponi a puni ka maʻi ma ka hana. Ke kū mau nei nā maʻi ʻino, ʻoiai ke ʻano ikaika hoʻokuke ʻia ka lāʻau lapaʻau.

Ua ʻōlelo ʻo Muller, he liʻiliʻi loa nā maʻi ma waena o kāna mau limahana mahiʻai - ʻohi ʻia kāna mau tōmato. I kēia manawa, hopohopo nō hoʻi ʻo ia i ka nele o nā limahana.

Pehea ka hele ʻana o ke awāwa ʻo Salinas o Kaleponi mai kahi wela covid i kahi kumu hoʻohālike no ka pale ʻana a me ka palekana

"Ua hoʻokō mākou i ka makahiki i hala, akā eia mākou, a ʻaʻole i hoʻi hou ka poʻe hana ma muli o ka hoʻonui ʻia ʻana o nā pono hana ʻole, a ua hoʻopilikia i nā mea kanu hoʻoponopono wā," wahi a Muller.

Ke alakaʻi nei kēia mau pilikia a pau i ka liʻiliʻi o nā tōmato. Ua hoʻomau ka poʻe hana i kā lākou manaʻo i ka nui o nā tōmato a lākou e ʻaelike ai no kēia makahiki, e hāʻule ana ma mua o hoʻokahi miliona mau tona. a i kēia manawa ua manaʻo nui loa ia. Ua ʻōlelo ʻo Muller ʻo kēia ka makahiki mua ʻaʻole i loaʻa i ka poʻe kaʻina hana nā tonage tōmato makemake lākou mai ka poʻe mahiʻai. "ʻO kēia makahiki kekahi o nā pae haʻahaʻa haʻahaʻa loa a mākou i ʻike ai," wahi āna.

Ua piʻi mua nā kumukūʻai. I ʻApelila, ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o ka hana ʻana i nā tōmato ma ka honua he 7 pakeneka ma mua o ʻekolu mau kau ma mua, e like me ka World Processing Tomato Council. A ma mua o ka hiki ʻana mai o ka nalu wela o kēia kauwela, ua kūkākūkā ka California Tomato Growers Association i kahi kumukūʻai no ka poʻe mahiʻai. me nā mea hoʻoheheʻe tōmato he 5.6 pakeneka kiʻekiʻe ma mua o ka wā ulu i hala, no ka mea, e like me ka ʻōlelo ʻana a Muller, ke piʻi nei nā lilo o ka poʻe mahiʻai: "ʻO nā lako, ka wahie, ka lipine kulu, nā mea me ke kila, kapa ʻoe, e piʻi ana."

Hana ʻia nā ʻōmato i ʻohi ʻia ma ke awāwa ʻo San Joaquin ma Los Banos, Kaleponi (John Brecher no ka The Washington Post)

"He mau mea waiwai nui nā mea hoʻohana ʻo Tomato e hiki ke hana i hoʻokahi mea. Inā ʻaʻole lākou makemake e haʻalele i ka ʻoihana, pono lākou e kūʻai aku i nā tōmato ma mua o ka waiho ʻana i nā hale hana ʻole, "wahi a Swanson, ka mea hoʻokele waiwai.

Manaʻo ʻia e hāʻawi ʻia kēlā mau kumukūʻai i nā ʻoihana nui e ʻaelike me nā mea hana, wahi a nā loea mahiʻai. ʻAʻole naʻe i hōʻailona nā ʻoihana i pili i nā tōmato i ka piʻi ʻana o ke kumukūʻai. Ua hōʻole ʻo Kraft Heinz e haʻi e pili ana i ke kumukūʻai no kēia moʻolelo, e like me Campbell Soup, kahi mea ulu a me kahi mea hana a hoʻohana e pili ana. 2 XNUMX mau pouna paona ʻO nā tōmato i kēlā me kēia makahiki no kāna sopa hōʻailona, ​​nā mea inu V8 a me nā kīʻaha Prego a me Pace.

Ua ʻōlelo ʻo James Sherwood o ka Morning Star Company, ʻo ia kekahi o nā mea hana ʻōmato nui loa, he paʻakikī ke wānana i ke kiʻekiʻe o nā kumukūʻai. Ua ʻōlelo ʻo ia ʻaʻole ʻo nā kumukūʻai kiʻekiʻe wale nō ma muli o ka maloʻo akā ke hoʻonui pū nei nō hoʻi i nā kumukūʻai no ka mea kanu, ka hana a me ke kinoea maoli. A hiki i ka makahiki aʻe ke ʻoi aku ka grimmer.

"He mau haʻawina haʻahaʻa kā mākou i kēia manawa a me kahi pilikia wai," wahi a Sherwood, "a no ka makahiki aʻe, aia nā mea mahiʻai e hoʻoholo i nā mea kanu e pili ana i kā lākou hoʻokaʻawale ʻana i ka wai. Nui loa nā loko, haʻahaʻa haʻahaʻa i kēia manawa a pili kēlā. "

Akā ʻo ka nui o kēia mau hoʻoholo ʻoihana i hana ʻia ma mua o ka blistering hou, hoʻopaʻa i ka nalu wela. Ua ʻike ʻo Fresno County, ka mea nāna i hoʻopuka i nā tōmato, i kahi lōʻihi o nā wela ʻekolu-helu. ʻO Yolo, Kings, Merced a me San Joaquin ka mea nui loa e pili ana i ka hana ʻana i nā tōmato, a ʻo nā ʻelima a pau i loko o ka ʻāpana "ka maloʻo kūikawā", ka pae kiʻekiʻe loa ma ka palapala ʻāina maloʻo US. Ua uhi ʻia nā kūlana maloʻo koʻikoʻi aneane pau loa o ka aina o Kaleponi, me ka ua a me ka hau ma lalo o ka awelika a me kāna pūnaewele o nā waihona wai e paʻa ana i ka wai ma mua o ka maʻamau.

Ua ʻōlelo ʻo Muller i kahi makahiki maʻamau ua hoʻokaʻawale ʻo ia i ʻekolu a ʻehā paha kapuai wai no kela a me keia eka aina mahiai e pono ai irrigation. I kēia makahiki ua loaʻa iā ia he smidgen o hoʻokahi kapuaʻi, he 3.6 ʻīniha wale nō o ka wai no ka ʻeka. ʻOi aku ka liʻiliʻi o ka ua ma mua o ka mea maʻamau, a me ka liʻiliʻi o ka wai irrigation ma mua o ka mea maʻamau, ʻo ia ka mea e pono ai nā mea kanu e huli i ka wai lepo, ʻoi aku ka nui o ke kumukūʻai, e mālama i kā lākou mea kanu.

ʻO Greg Pruett, ka luna nui o Ingomar Packing Company, ke kū nei ma kahi māla. (John Brecher no ka Washington Post)

“Ma ke Kalana ʻo Yolo, loaʻa iā mākou ka wai lepo paʻa a me ka hoʻopiha hou ʻana i ka wai. E like me ka loaʻa ʻana o ke kālā i loko o ka panakō, no laila ke puhi nei mākou i ka wai mai ka lepo e like me ka huki ʻana, "wahi āna. “Ke mālama nei mākou i ko mākou mau manamana lima e hoʻomau ka papa wai iā ia iho. ʻO ia ke kumu o ka hopohopo hou. "

Ua ʻōlelo ʻo Greg Pruett, ka luna nui o Ingomar Packing Company ma Los Banos, kahi hui o ʻehā mau mea kanu, e ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o ke kūlana i kēia makahiki aʻe, no ka mea, ʻoiai aia nā pae wai kūpono e hele ana i kēia kau ulu, e hoʻopau ʻia e huli ka poe mahiai i ka wai lepo.

Ma ka Pōʻalima, ua hoʻokuʻu ka Papa Mana Waiwai Waiwai o Kaleponi i kahi kauoha e hōʻoki i ka poʻe mahiʻai mai ka huli ʻana i nā kahawai a me nā kahawai ma nā kahawai ʻo Sacramento a me San Joaquin, e hoʻoneʻe ana i kahi kumu wai hou i loko o kahi makahiki maloʻo nui.

"E loaʻa i nā mea kanu ke kūlana wai ʻino loa ma ka hopena o kēia kau ulu," wahi a Pruett. "Ke piʻi nei ke kumukūʻai i kēia makahiki - i ka wai, nā kini, nā mea ʻē aʻe a pau, ka hana, ka lawe ʻana - ua hoʻohui ʻia kēlā mau mea āpau i ka piʻi kālā nui. A he haʻahaʻa kēlā i ka hoʻohālikelike ʻana i nā mea e hiki mai ana i kēia makahiki aʻe.

ʻO ka laina lalo, ʻōlelo ʻo ia: Inā hoʻomau ka maloʻo a emi nui ka papa wai, ʻaʻole hiki i nā mea kanu ke kanu i nā tōmato i kēia makahiki aʻe.

ʻOhi ʻia nā ʻōmato ma ke awāwa ʻo San Joaquin e Ingomar Packing Company. (John Brecher no ka Washington Post)
Kumu:  https://www.washingtonpost.com

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